Another great day with superb climbing conditions on the Mess of Pottage and views right across Scotland. With bomber first time placements on the Message the climbing was an absolute joy - so good I almost forgot to stop! The only downside was that the icy conditions meant finding protection was more difficult in the blocked and verglassed cracks, however the positive nature of the climbing more than compensated. A selection of pegs are definitely useful though...! More details and photos on Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/12/message.html
We met Simon and Kenny at the carpark this morning heading off to climb Central Crack Route. Simon had climbed Deep Throat on Thursday and said conditions were superb in Coire an Lochain.
In the Loch Avon basin Jonathan P, Sandy A and Andy N climbed yet another new roiute, a steep gully on Stacan Dubha at V,6.
1 comment:
Email from Jim H:
Hi Ron,
We saw you on Saturday coming into the Mess of Pottage whilst we were the first on the Haston Line, which Davie (over from Bermuda) really enjoyed it. We topped out at 1 so had time for a beer tasting in the Cairngorm brewery, which was a novel ice-climbing experience for Davie but one that he much appreciated.
After an easy day I was back on the hill with James Maybee on Sunday and we climbed Astronomy on Cairn Lochain. This was after I'd backed off the crux of Ewen Buttress Direct because of lean conditions and bad snow. I'm curious to know what its grade should be because when I climbed it last, I reckon it was a good V,6.
Since then I've packed up and left for Provence, where it feels colder than Scotland.
It looks like we are all in for a cold blast (with more snow) until Xmas so there should be plenty of opportunity for you to do loads more.
Best wishes to you and Fiona for Christmas and the New Year and I'll be in touch with one of you when I get back in January; whan I'm free for about a fortnight before heading off to Rjukan with the Rucksack Club.
Best Regards,
Jim
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