Braeriach cornices 10th February 2010Fairly settled until after the weekend before the temps plummet yet again. So we're on queue for more snow and no doubt road works and traffic jams for the hectic mid-term school break!
Fi is back from a few days snowholing in the heart of the Cairngorms and has lots of stunning of photos from Braeriach. You can see the photos and spot thethick blue ice at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2010/02/snowhole-and-bivi-exped.html
Also look at Al H's latest videos and his blog to get an idea of the latest climbing conditions. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSC3Bh-DOj8&feature=player_embedded
It's also worth mentioning that horizontal dual point crampons are often less likely to slice through the soft snow and ice and that traditional axes (with adze and without handles) are more suitable for plunging, clearing the gear placements and digging out the belays on many of the mid grade routes. A number climbers have been baling out or struggling with the latest state of the art ice climbing kit while winter hillwalkers are waltzing up the same routes with a single axe and strap on crampons ;-) Deadmen could also be beneficial for runners on some of the steep snow and run out corniced exits rather than a rack of friends!
Email from Oli below looking for a climbing partner next week:
Hi Ron,
Hope you're well and having a good season.
So far my Scotland trips have coincided with pretty poor conditions and I'm yet to do a Scottish route this season. Fortunately conditions in Wales have been OK and I've managed a couple of ice routes their instead.
Anyway I'm in Scotland next week from Wednesday through to Sunday and am looking for partners, I wondered if you could stick something on your blog or let me know if you hear of anyone in the same situation.
Fi is back from a few days snowholing in the heart of the Cairngorms and has lots of stunning of photos from Braeriach. You can see the photos and spot thethick blue ice at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2010/02/snowhole-and-bivi-exped.html
Also look at Al H's latest videos and his blog to get an idea of the latest climbing conditions. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSC3Bh-DOj8&feature=player_embedded
It's also worth mentioning that horizontal dual point crampons are often less likely to slice through the soft snow and ice and that traditional axes (with adze and without handles) are more suitable for plunging, clearing the gear placements and digging out the belays on many of the mid grade routes. A number climbers have been baling out or struggling with the latest state of the art ice climbing kit while winter hillwalkers are waltzing up the same routes with a single axe and strap on crampons ;-) Deadmen could also be beneficial for runners on some of the steep snow and run out corniced exits rather than a rack of friends!
Email from Oli below looking for a climbing partner next week:
Hi Ron,
Hope you're well and having a good season.
So far my Scotland trips have coincided with pretty poor conditions and I'm yet to do a Scottish route this season. Fortunately conditions in Wales have been OK and I've managed a couple of ice routes their instead.
Anyway I'm in Scotland next week from Wednesday through to Sunday and am looking for partners, I wondered if you could stick something on your blog or let me know if you hear of anyone in the same situation.
Probably best for anyone interested to give me a shout on 07792656685
Many thanks
Oli Giles
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