Sparkling hidden gems and crystals!

A lovely warm sunny day so dragged Fi away from the removal packing for a little jaunt up the local hills and some early evening climbing :-)
A few weeks ago while climbing on Aladdin's Seats Pinnacle, I was reminded of a winter line we had climbed with a client Chris a few years ago, as a continuation of Patey's Route on the upper rock ribs.
Our route climbed icey grooves and a chimney just to the right, then onto the upper pinnacled sharks fin on the right edge of Aladdins Couloir. See http://talisman-activities.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/windy-and-warmer.html
It's a natural and finely situated line, although the continuation of the Original Route, Aladdins Seat Pinnacle onto the upper sharks fin of Aladdin's Right Edge is strangely missing from modern guidebooks?
I suggested to Fi  that we should climb this line direct in the summer as the rock on the crest of the upper fin, like the Pinnacle, looked fairly sound.
When I suggested this Fi, like myself wasn't keen on the middle, loose, blocky, scramble between Original Route and the Pinnacle of Aladdin's Seat.
I then suggested that we could instead descend the Grade 1 snow of Aladdins Couloir from the plateau to the upper Righthand Edge start.
It would be good alpine preparation for our annual trip the Alps, to climb it in big boots with a short 30 metre half rope and small scrambling rack.

I really wasn't sure what the grade the direct rock line was, but somehow knew I could take the most direct and exposed line, which we did, although the blank slabby wall and balancey friction moves would have been more fun in rock boots rather than dripping wet B3 mountaineering boots!
We climbed the upper edge in two and a bit pitches with good comfortable stances and some fun airy moves overlooking Aladdins Couloir.
Now that I know the rock on the crest is fairly sound (much better than Fingers Ridge!) and that the climbing good, I'll just have to work out a less loose and more pleasant approach to our summer start when there's no snow!
As for the crystals see the Talisman Guides Facebook photo album here and short YouTube video here.

Stunning alpine weather

With the overnight frosts and clear blue skies conditions have been truly alpine. Many buttresses are bone dry for rock climbing and at the same time a number of the grade 1 and 2 gullies are still complete and have been in perfect winter climbing condition until late afternoon!
Today Fi took Gareth up Pygmy Ridge while I filmed. Despite the dazzling sun and warm afternoon temperatures the clear skies and overnight frost provide ideal neve for crampons on the approach up Central Gully. At the base of Pygmy Ridge we got out the rope and packed away the crampons and axes for an enjoyable climb up the lovely dry rocky ridge onto the plateau. After lunch Fi and I put the crampons back on and descended a banked and still frozen Jacob's Ladder to the foot of a sunny Mess of Pottage. With our axes and crampons stashed in our rucksacks and our big boots still on we headed up the line of Pot of Gold. This provided great fun and ideal alpine training on the now warm rock. Videos later...

More details on Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/04/pygmy-ridge-and-pot-of-gold.html