Established in 1992 Talisman Mountaineering | Cairngorm Guides | Aviemore specialise in winter skills, climbing and guiding in the Cairngorms. This is a day to day OR monthly diary of what we get up to on our courses and the winter conditions in the Scottish mountains...!
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Friday, 8 August 2014
Wednesday, 6 August 2014
Friday, 18 July 2014
Wednesday, 16 July 2014
Sunday, 25 March 2012
The Braeriach Corries expedition
Glen was interested in some WML navigation coaching and a winter rope work refresher on grade 1 ground. As Talisman takes you further and higher, I suggested we take a trip into Braeriach's Garbh Choirie!
I knew from our recent trips on the Ben MacDui plateau that Braeriach still had full winter cover in the the easier gully lines!!!!
I have to say it was an excellent choice and we had an absolutely fantastic two day expedition on Braeriach with truly alpine conditions.
This gave us a chance to explore some of the totally unique areas that are rarely ever visited due to the effort and their remoteness on our navigation legs and the to climb Great Gully in the wild, remote and truly alpine Garbh Choire Mor.
The rarely visited glaciated hanging coire is the site of the UK's longest lasting semi-permanent snow fields with it's unique rare arctic alpine fauna and flora and can be seen in the HD video below.
The HD YouTube climbing video is now at http://youtu.be/AbXYan_LmmA
Even more photos are on the Talisman Mountaineering Facebook page here including the Capercaillie! Sadly the Capercaillie we've met several times defending it's area on the walk in has been killed by a dog.
See http://www.snh.gov.uk/news-and-events/press-releases/press-release-details/?id=698
Sunday, 16 October 2011
Highland sport climbing!
It's not Spain but it's not far off and ideal for mixed weather climbing in the Scottish Highlands. We've now been back to Moy Rock several times finding it dry and warm when most other Highland crags have been wet and cold. As a bonus lots of new routes are being added almost weekly by local climbers with plenty of scope for loads more over the next few years. Martin H and John McK were quick off the mark when I mentioned that I'd seen Ray W and Andy N cleaning up some new lines! They climbed a variation of Ray's project calling it 'Moy Bridge' which has since been renamed!!!
Thursday, 29 September 2011
Local Scottish sport climbing crag
Unfortunately the rock is conglomerate which is basically pebbles and rocks cemented into an ancient matrix of hard mud!!!
OK sounds crap but after the first few routes trying not to pull the holds off and being suspicious of the bolts it's still a bit loose YET surprisingly good!
I'm still not convinced by some of the bolts and lowers YET!
Eventually we actually started to enjoy the last few routes and will be returning soon along with the rest of the Highland's 'Darby and Joan' Club and the odd 40 plus whippersnapper!!!
One of the routes felt very similar to some of the trad limestone routes in the Costa Blanca that we will be climbing in Spain this November.
This leads onto a November and Hot Rock courses cheap villa double room plug, yes we have places ;-)
OK sounds crap but after the first few routes trying not to pull the holds off and being suspicious of the bolts it's still a bit loose YET surprisingly good!
I'm still not convinced by some of the bolts and lowers YET!
Eventually we actually started to enjoy the last few routes and will be returning soon along with the rest of the Highland's 'Darby and Joan' Club and the odd 40 plus whippersnapper!!!
One of the routes felt very similar to some of the trad limestone routes in the Costa Blanca that we will be climbing in Spain this November.
This leads onto a November and Hot Rock courses cheap villa double room plug, yes we have places ;-)
Monday, 10 May 2010
Really Cool on the Cuillin Ridge!
We're just back to a snowy Aviemore from ten days guiding on the Skye Cuillin Ridge Munros.
Between Fi and I we managed four guided (2:1 ratio) ascents of the In Pin and many of the trickier Munros while avoiding the worst of the cold windy weather.
The weather has being unseasonably cold since the start of May with fresh snow and good skiing still on offer in the east Highlands on Cairngorm.
Out west passing through Glen Sheil there was hardly any old snow left on the hills. However arriving on Skye there was fresh snow falling on the Cuillin Ridge.
Most of the snow melted back by Tuesday but the fresh snow and rimed rock ended a few ridge attempts on Monday and made some of the easier peaks treacherous.
We met one experienced ridge traverse team from Ireland who'd spend three and a half hours descending on iced slabs from their bivy cave a few hundred metres along the Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh ridge to An Dorus to escape!
Fortunately there was less old snow in the corries and gullies than in the past avoiding the need for Jenny, Len, Scott and Karin to carry ice axes and crampons. We had all the winter kit just in case though!
Between Fi and I we managed four guided (2:1 ratio) ascents of the In Pin and many of the trickier Munros while avoiding the worst of the cold windy weather.
The weather has being unseasonably cold since the start of May with fresh snow and good skiing still on offer in the east Highlands on Cairngorm.
Out west passing through Glen Sheil there was hardly any old snow left on the hills. However arriving on Skye there was fresh snow falling on the Cuillin Ridge.
Most of the snow melted back by Tuesday but the fresh snow and rimed rock ended a few ridge attempts on Monday and made some of the easier peaks treacherous.
We met one experienced ridge traverse team from Ireland who'd spend three and a half hours descending on iced slabs from their bivy cave a few hundred metres along the Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh ridge to An Dorus to escape!
Fortunately there was less old snow in the corries and gullies than in the past avoiding the need for Jenny, Len, Scott and Karin to carry ice axes and crampons. We had all the winter kit just in case though!
A YouTube video of Jenny, Len and Scott climbing and abseiling off the Inn Pinn can be viewed here.
After the first Cuillin Ridge course finished we eventually (no mobile reception!) met up with Emma, Fiona, Alan and Craig for some more Munros including climbing the In Pinn.
The weather outlooks all looked dire with more snow, wind and and minus 4 on the summits. So we decided to climb the In Pin on Sunday rather than the original schedule for Monday or Tuesday. We made the right choice and had a great day. On Monday we awoke to fresh snow down to about 500 metres with more forecast for the next few days!
Later we drove back east to the fresh snow in Aviemore. Maybe some summer skiing and easy summer winter climbing!!!!
The weather outlooks all looked dire with more snow, wind and and minus 4 on the summits. So we decided to climb the In Pin on Sunday rather than the original schedule for Monday or Tuesday. We made the right choice and had a great day. On Monday we awoke to fresh snow down to about 500 metres with more forecast for the next few days!
Later we drove back east to the fresh snow in Aviemore. Maybe some summer skiing and easy summer winter climbing!!!!
There are still a a few places available on our next Skye Rock Climbing and Cuillin Ridge course. The courses and private guiding on the In Pin start on the 31st May-4th June 2010.
To book a course or arrange guiding on the Skye Cuillin Ridge see https://www.talisman-activities.co.uk/product-page/cuillin-ridge-munros
To book a course or arrange guiding on the Skye Cuillin Ridge see https://www.talisman-activities.co.uk/product-page/cuillin-ridge-munros
Monday, 28 May 2007
Birthday boy on Old Man Of Hoy!
'The Old Man Of Hoy' the greatest climbing adventure in the UK...
27th and 28th May 2007 - there are climbs and there are REAL adventures and climbing the Old Man of Hoy is not only a fantastic rock climb but also a real adventure!
 |
| Happy birthday John on Old Man of Hoy summit |
 |
| The Old Man of Hoy, sea stack |
How do you celebrate your 40th birthday or any significant decade or milestone? Well if you are a really keen VS plus rock climber - by climbing the Old Man of Hoy of course!
John was given a rematch of his 30th birthday attempt (along with his brother in-law James) by his generous wife Frith.
After several guided ascents since we filmed our first guided ascent in 1999 we again agreed to guide on 'The Old Man of Hoy' and to film it again as well - me and my big mouth!
This actually which meant climbing the Old Man of Hoy twice with the assistance of Fi just to get the camera and video shots right!
Before heading north from Inverness we had a training day in Huntly's Cave to make sure the guy's were up to the task and capabile of seconding sustained overhung VS. This also gave us the opportunity to look at freehanging multi-pitch abseil techniques for the safe but very serious descent from the Old Man of Hoy!
Despite the grim weather forecasts and Inverness outdoor shop TISO doom mongers we made the best use of the weather windows between the fronts and had a fantastic climb. John also raised over a £1,000 pounds for the Rathbone childrens charity. See the Guardian article here
This actually which meant climbing the Old Man of Hoy twice with the assistance of Fi just to get the camera and video shots right!
 |
| John and James on hanging belay Huntly's Cave |
 |
| John climbing the Cave Route Direct, Huntly's Cave |
Before heading north from Inverness we had a training day in Huntly's Cave to make sure the guy's were up to the task and capabile of seconding sustained overhung VS. This also gave us the opportunity to look at freehanging multi-pitch abseil techniques for the safe but very serious descent from the Old Man of Hoy!
 |
| James belaying crux traverse Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| John on the crux moves Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| John above crux on 2nd pitch Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| Ron climbing last pitch 5 Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| Ron on crux Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| Fi on top Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| John, Fi and Ron on summit Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| On crux Ron top, Fi blue and John red helmet |
 |
| Climbing the Old Man of Hoy |
 |
| John abseiling from Old Man of Hoy |
Despite the grim weather forecasts and Inverness outdoor shop TISO doom mongers we made the best use of the weather windows between the fronts and had a fantastic climb. John also raised over a £1,000 pounds for the Rathbone childrens charity. See the Guardian article here
When comes to weather reports the best advice I can offer is when near to the venue look out the window and then decide!
Talisman Activities have guided on the Old Man of Hoy for a 21st, 30th and 40th birthday recently so who wants to celebrate their 50th, 60th or 70th birthday by climbing the Old Man of Hoy?
For guided climbing especially on the Old Man of Hoy please phone or email beforehand to discuss the exact requirements and your previous CURRENT climbing experience!
For guided climbing especially on the Old Man of Hoy please phone or email beforehand to discuss the exact requirements and your previous CURRENT climbing experience!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)