Upper Central Ridge Climbing and Cragging Variations

Central Ridge Flyby Topo!

Slab Arête and Chimney crux!

Slab and Chimney plus Arête Variation

Diagonal Crack Direct and much more!

Caithness Rock Climbing (23 June 2021)

Climbing Dawn Date 3rd June 2021

Sunrise on Cairngorm - June 2021

Climbing La Pisse Lazuli (5th August 2019)

Some GoPro video and photos from 5th August 2019, recovered from an old hard drive of Fi and I climbing the spectacular 300 metre 6b A0 multi-pitch sports climb called La Pisse Lazuli by JM Cambon and Patrick Correard in 1992). The route is situated near La Grave in the Ecrins and climbs up the imposing left hand side of the well known free falling waterfall Cascade de la Pisse. We’d previously climbed the the Pisse via ferrata on the rhs and in the past had climbed on the nearby ice climbs but had thought that any ice or rock climbs on that face would have been too serious and committing! In March 2019 I badly dislocated my shoulder skiing and our annual Alps trip staying at St Chaffrey in June was almost postponed as even driving was difficult never mind climbing. Anyway we decided it was good recuperation to get away from the rain and Scottish midges for some gentle walking. So far the trip had been mostly trekking and exploring the nearby alpine peaks and valleys rather than the usual rock and alpine climbing though an excursion up the Aiguille Dibona via the easier voie normale fired up our enthusiasm for some easier climbing. As my shoulder recovered it was into July before we even started rock climbing on the slabs around Ailefroide, avoiding anything too steep or overhung, that is until we'd heard JM Cambon had renewed the bolts on a number of his older routes recently including La Pisse Lazuli. So in early August we decided to have a look at Lazuli having previously happy on 6a+ slabs and some short overhung moves. that is until faced with the aid climbing on the final few pitches of La Pisse Lazuli which were steeper and more sustained than my arms and shoulder wished for! It's an amazing setting and line for a rock climb though the rock quality was a bit friable in places though fortunately more solid than it looked on the steeper section!

Trad Rock Climbing at Logiehead

Rock Climbing at Creag Mhor

Some video clips of the Scottish multi-pitch sport climbing crag at the Mound.

Birthday Boys 22nd Dec 2019

Climbing the Frendo Spur (part 2 of 2)

Winter in Scotland and Spanish Hot Rock!

Winter has arrived in the Cairngorms and several winter routes have already been climbed, just as we leave for some hot rock climbing in Spain!

We are away until the end of November and will be taking winter skills bookings by email and text...

Another classic alpine day with Marcus - 11th May 2016

Great weather and a grand alpine day out guiding on Fingers Ridge with Marcus. Two approach pitches on snow before we removed our crampons to enjoy the lovely rough dry granite on the main route. More details on our Facebook album at https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.758132867620596.1073741918.124310161002873/

A classic alpine day guiding on snow and dry rock

The amazing alpine like weather continues and today I was out with Marcus who'd last been regularly climbing in the 1990's.
We had an early alpine start and although misty in Aviemore, as soon as we drove up the ski road we broke through the cloud into the sunshine and glistening white mountains.
A lovely walk in on firm snow with views across Scotland, above the sea of cloud.
I'd kept the route options open as I wasn't sure how well frozen the snow was on any of the harder routes although it was good in the easy gullies and crag approaches.
The rock appeared dry so we decided the best and safest option, as temperature rose, would be to quickly climb Central Gully and then take our crampons off, alpine style, to climb the the dry rock of Pygmy Ridge, avoiding any ice in the grooves and ledges.
It was a good choice and we topped out before mid-day and potential rock and ice fall, for a leisurely stroll back in the sun.
On the drive back from our scottish winter route I put the car's air conditions on, rather than the usual heater, a first for me!

Orange Rock Climbing at Guadalest!

Exposed belay in cave

Our Local Crag in Spain

Sparkling hidden gems and crystals!

A lovely warm sunny day so dragged Fi away from the removal packing for a little jaunt up the local hills and some early evening climbing :-)
A few weeks ago while climbing on Aladdin's Seats Pinnacle, I was reminded of a winter line we had climbed with a client Chris a few years ago, as a continuation of Patey's Route on the upper rock ribs.
Our route climbed icey grooves and a chimney just to the right, then onto the upper pinnacled sharks fin on the right edge of Aladdins Couloir. See http://talisman-activities.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/windy-and-warmer.html
It's a natural and finely situated line, although the continuation of the Original Route, Aladdins Seat Pinnacle onto the upper sharks fin of Aladdin's Right Edge is strangely missing from modern guidebooks?
I suggested to Fi  that we should climb this line direct in the summer as the rock on the crest of the upper fin, like the Pinnacle, looked fairly sound.
When I suggested this Fi, like myself wasn't keen on the middle, loose, blocky, scramble between Original Route and the Pinnacle of Aladdin's Seat.
I then suggested that we could instead descend the Grade 1 snow of Aladdins Couloir from the plateau to the upper Righthand Edge start.
It would be good alpine preparation for our annual trip the Alps, to climb it in big boots with a short 30 metre half rope and small scrambling rack.

I really wasn't sure what the grade the direct rock line was, but somehow knew I could take the most direct and exposed line, which we did, although the blank slabby wall and balancey friction moves would have been more fun in rock boots rather than dripping wet B3 mountaineering boots!
We climbed the upper edge in two and a bit pitches with good comfortable stances and some fun airy moves overlooking Aladdins Couloir.
Now that I know the rock on the crest is fairly sound (much better than Fingers Ridge!) and that the climbing good, I'll just have to work out a less loose and more pleasant approach to our summer start when there's no snow!
As for the crystals see the Talisman Guides Facebook photo album here and short YouTube video here.