Normal winter service resumes!

The last day of our New Year Winter Mountaineering course. Milder with low cloud, strong winds from the south west and fresh snowfall today... The snow drifts from yesterday have been scoured and redeposited onto north easterly aspects. Today we again looked route choice , avalanche assessment and at various snow and ice anchors. Visibility was generaly poor as well as the wind direction on some of the official weather and avalanche forecasts...!

Yesterdays YouTube climbing video can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuYpMNOwkC0

Fresh snow and socks in the gullies!

It felt bitterly cold this morning walking into the stronger than expected south easterly wind. This had led to considerable drifting of the snow from the plateau and fresh cornice buildup on our intended gully line.

A good opportunity to look at avalanche assessment and safe travel techniques between islands of safety. The approach slopes were initially pretty deep and slabby but from previous experience I thought it was worth having a further look at the gully.

My hunch was right and I was relieved to find that the fresh snow was only between 10 and 15 cm at it's deepest and with good solid neve below for the axes and crampons in the actual gully line.

The next worry was the cornice but I could just make out the line of steps from the other day so it too wasn't looking that bad.

We then climbed on up between the good rock anchors which was fine until James mentioned his foot was coming out of is boot - and it really was!

Once he was tied off I down climbed then cut a ledge to sort his footwear out. The moral is please remember to do up your boot laces tightly when climbing steep snow with crampons...!

Despite the delay everyone including James (I think?) enjoyed the climb.

Rain and snow for a change!

The weather finally broke today so our Winter Mountaineering course looked at ropework on a small crag in the shelter of the trees.
It was a milder and wetter day but with fresh snow on the hills and sleety rain falling on frozen ground at lower levels. The avalanche forecast is Category 3 for tomorrow. The weather forecast for Monday is good and sunny but a lot colder so paths and rocks could be a bit icy!
It will be interesting to see how the climbing has been affected by the fresh snow although it should benefit any ice buildup and fill in some of the chopped up routes. Extra care will be required on some slopes especially where the fresh snow lies on the old icy snow underneath...!

Report from today and Spiral Gully video

Chris Climbing in Spiral Gully on the 2nd January 2009

If you can't see the video above the YouTube video from yesterday (2nd January 2009) can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pchih_7uvEg

A report from todays (3rd January 2009) Winter Mountaineering course can be found on Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/diary.html

Walking on water yesterday and above the clouds today!

Another fine, cold, calm, sunny day with perfect neve for climbing on. A light dusting of fresh snow on New Years day meant the crags were a lot whiter and the ski pistes a bit grippier.

An unexpected phone call from Chris on Hogmanay to see if I was available for another days guided climbing on the 2nd was hard to resist. Especially given the weather forecast and fantastic snow conditions.

"Yes, I can do that" and phone call to Fi to see if she could look after the New Year Winter Mountaineering course meant another great winter climbing day for Chris and I.

Despite my worries about the overcrowded routes we managed to get Spiral Gully more or less to ourselves, Steve & Sean Peatfield (Aberdeen) and Giles (Lodge) and Gareth along side - which was all very sociable!

See also Chris's blog at http://pinmaster.wordpress.com/

Today was also the start of our first Winter Mountaineering course of the year - 2009 that is!

See Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/diary.html

New Years day ice skating...

A relaxing New Years day ice skating on the completely frozen Loch Morlich!

New Years day ice skating on Loch Morlich YouTube video can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wVn2KPwUKU